The word of the day is: Ullage

In continuing to monitor the progress of our wine, we periodically need to address the evaporation that takes place from the barrel. If a container isn't completely air-tight, such as an oak wine barrel, evaporation takes place and the alcohol and water particles in the wine can escape as vapors. This is referred to as ullage.

Ullage (pronounced uh-lij) which comes from the French ouillage, has many definitions, one of which describes this process of wine evaporating from a wooden container, such as a barrel. It is also used to describe the head space within the barrel that is caused by such evaporation. And, if you want to impress your friends at your next party, it is also used to identify the air space in a sealed bottle of wine. Regardless of what it is called, the head space in the barrel often needs to be “topped off” to fill the empty space, which, ironically, is referred to as...ullage.

Sometimes we have to get a little creative on how we actually reach the barrels to make sure they are full.

In addition to topping off the barrels, we like to take a sample from each barrel to check the progress. Speaking of progress, I must say the wine is coming along quite nicely. The flavors are continuing to develop and the color is a beautiful, rich garnet. We are so thrilled with the progress and can't wait to share the finished product with everyone.

As the calendar counts down to the end of 2012, we would like to take this time to wish you and your family all the best. May you be surrounded by loved ones as you share good stories, great food, and fantastic wines.

Happy Holidays!

This Harvest is Over!

Activities are winding down in the vineyard.  All the grapes have been harvested, the leaves are changing colors and the cooler, crisp air is reminding us that winter is quickly approaching.

The 2012 growing season for Sonoma County is being described as everything from “very good” to “exceptional”.  The weather this year was close to ideal which allowed for a bountiful crop of mature grapes with well-balanced flavors. This year's harvest statewide is estimated to be around 3.7 million tons, up from 3.3 million tons in 2011 which is great for the California wine industry.

Activities have slowed down in the winery too.  Our wine has been in barrel for a few weeks now and we're continuing to monitor it's development in the aging process.  While it's too early to predict what the wine will ultimately develop into, it's starting to display the characteristics of a true Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

As the Thanksgiving holiday approaches and you begin to plan your meals and wine pairings, keep in mind that nothing pairs better with Thanksgiving dinner than Pinot Noir.  Be sure to add your email address to this site to be added to our mailing list so you can have our pinot on your dinner table next year.  Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

So Now What?

You may think just because the wine is aging away nicely in the barrels that nothing else happens until it is bottled.  Oh to the contrary.  While the wine is ever-changing as it soaks up the wonderful flavors and aromas of the oak, the business side of things is moving full-steam ahead.

Bottles, licensing, and labels, oh my!  There is definitely plenty going on.  The name and label designs are just about complete and I can't wait to share it with you all.  Stay tuned for the big unveiling.  It won't be long now!

Moving to Barrel

Since my last post, the fermentation process has taken place to convert the grape sugars to alcohol all while the colors and flavors in the wine have continued to develop.  Once complete, it was time to move on to the next phase called "press" which is when the fermented juice is extracted from the grapes.
 

With a little help from a basket press and some gentle pressure, the juice was slowly extracted from the grapes and added to the barrels.

 

Wine, grape skins and seeds going into the press

Pressed wine

One of my favorite aromas of the wine making process is when newly made wine first comes in contact with the inside of a new French oak barrel.  The scent is amazing when the fruit-forward wine combined with the toasted oak of the barrel.
 

But, in all honestly, it's not just the aroma that makes the moment so special. It's the fact that another phase of wine making is over.  It's a time to reflect back on the grape development in the vineyard based on the changes in the weather.  To remember the date that was scheduled to pick and process the grapes.  And, to think back on all of the hours in the winery spent tending to the grapes to extract rich colors and flavors.  All of these memories culminate at this point when the wine enters the barrel.

Granted, a lot still happens to the wine during the aging process when in barrel, (which you will have to stick around to find out about) but this just means we are one step closer to a great wine.  And based on that aroma when the wine hit the barrel, it's building up to be something incredible!

 

Let's Make Some Wine!

After the grapes have been picked from the vineyard and hauled back to the winery, we started the actual process of making wine.

Part of the winemaking process is maceration whereby we break down the grapes so that the grape skins can impart color and flavors into the juice.  Many people have asked if I stomp around with my bare feet like Lucy did in the vat of grapes on the I Love Lucy show.  If that was you, sorry to let you down but I don't (I make David do that!)  This sort of grape stomping isn't used very much today, except for with some varietals such as Mourvedre and Syrah, which benefit from this due to their thick skins and tight grape clusters.  However, for Pinot Noir, the skins are thinner so a punch-down tool works just fine to breakdown the grapes.

Ultimately, the sugars in the juice turn to alcohol to become wine but so much more occurs during the winemaking process that shapes a wine's style and structure.  Time, temperature, and attention during this process all play a role in making a truly well-rounded wine with beautiful color and flavors.  This Pinot Noir is shaping up to be just that.

California Weather

It has been said that a good deal of winemaking takes place in the vineyard. By the time the fruit has made it's way into the winery, if the grapes are good, the hard part is done. Some would argue it's all about location, but in actuality, it's the affect of the weather on that particular location that has a big impact. Coastal, hillside, valley floor, ridge top; vineyards planted in these types of terrain all receive different weather patterns and thus are suitable for growing different types of grapes to their greatest potential.

 

California is typically known for having beautiful weather and that is definitely one reason why this state is great for growing wine grapes. That said, mother nature doesn't always provide the perfect conditions when they are most critical; the weeks building up to harvest when the grapes are ripening on the vine.

The weather over the past few years hasn't been ideal and the amount of rain coupled with the cooler temperatures during the growing season had a negative impact on the quantity as well as quality of the fruit in many areas of California.

Luckily, for 2012, the weather has been pretty close to perfect.  The higher temperatures during the day has helped with maturation of the grapes while the nighttime lower temperatures helped preserve acidity.  These ideal conditions, found in our Russian River Valley vineyard, are just what the Pinot Noir grapes need to thrive to produce an exceptional wine for our inaugural vintage.

So... What is "X" Wines?

 Just to clear up any confusion I may have inadvertently caused, "X" Wines is not the name of my wine or winery.  “X” is the generic name I'm using as a temporary placeholder.  In all actuality, state regulations prevent me from revealing my actual name until licensing is complete.  With all of these steps in motion, it won't be long before I can let you know the true name of the winery.

In the meantime, I can share with you a bit about the name.  I wanted a name that exemplifies the characteristics of the varietal of grape and the actual place where the fruit comes from.  Grapes grow as nature dictates; completely affected by the climate, soil, and surroundings.  I am also a believer in creating a wine that is elegant and sophisticated.  All of these things are reflected in the actual name of the winery.

 

So what will the name be?  Stick around to find out! 

Its time to get this harvest started!

On a brisk 50 degree morning just before 5am, we started the drive up to the Russian River Valley as it was time to pick the grapes for our inaugural vintage.  The excitement I felt was indescribable!

As we arrived, a light layer of fog blanketing the vineyard. The air was damp and the bright green leaves of the vines were a beautiful contrast to the gray surroundings.

Russian River Valley vineyard

I tasted a few grapes straight from the vine and knew that this was the best time to pick.  The grapes themselves tasted sweet with intensely concentrated flavors and just the right amount of tartness.  We quickly and precisely cut the beautiful grape clusters from the vine and loaded them into the bins.
 

Kim with the vineyard managers checking the grape quality

It didn't take long before all of the grapes were picked and we were on the road again, taking the long drive back to San Francisco where we will produce the wine.  What happens next?  Stay tuned!

Vineyard Visit

When I set out to make the decision about when I thought the grapes would be ripe for picking, I had several things to consider; the color and taste of the grapes, the appearance of the stems, the amount of sugar in the grapes (called Brix), the condition of the vines and leaves, even the expected weather conditions.

A few weeks ago I headed to the vineyard to check on the ripeness of the Pinot Noir grapes.  The grape clusters were tightly formed, as is typical for Pinot Noir, and the color was a deep, rich, purplish-blue.  It didn't take long before I was compelled to pop a few grapes in my mouth which brought a smile to my face because they tasted fantastic!  This is definitely one of my favorite things about this time of year.

I took a sample so that I could test the ripeness of the grapes and it was coming right along!

Random Grape Cluster Sample

I also noticed that the seeds were still green which, if picked prematurely, would impart a herbaceous smell and taste into the wine.  Not good!  Once the grapes are fully ripe, the seeds will turn brown and this wouldn't be the case.

Grape Skins and Seeds

Determining when grapes are ripe and ready to be picked varies amongst the type of grape, the vineyard's location and from winemaker to winemaker...this determination is definitely in the eye of the beholder.  It is my intention to pick at the most perfect opportunity for my Russian River Valley vineyard's Pinot Noir to allow the wonderful flavors that I value in this fruit to carry over into the wine.  Stay tune to see that happen.

As I mentioned...taste matters a lot!

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Picking the Right Vineyard and Varietal

Like anything in life, you tend to like some things more than others.  Pepsi vs. Coke.  Hamburgers vs. Hotdogs.

While I enjoy all types of wines, I LOVE Pinot Noir. There's something about it that I am drawn to. Perhaps it is the variety of characteristics it offers; big, bold flavors with a soft and supple feeling. Colors that can range from pale pink to deep, rich burgundy. It can be enjoyed with a hearty meal or can be sipped slowly while sitting by a cozy fire. So when it came time to pick a varietal to produce, there really was no question.

I mean seriously...how beautiful do they look?

Likewise, when it came time to find the right location to source the fruit, Russian River Valley in Northern California was the obvious choice. The Russian River Valley centers around the Russian River, lying between Sebastopol and Santa Rosa to the south, and Forestville and Healdsburg to the north. The climate can be cool and the valley can be affected by the fog that is generated by its close proximity to the Pacific Ocean which makes it great for growing Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir vineyard in Russian River Valley

The specific vineyard I chose is right in the heart of the Russian River Valley. It benefits from the early morning low temperatures and fog from the ocean which helps in a slow, even maturing of the grapes that brings out its great flavors. When I saw the specific location for my fruit, I fell in love with the slight rolling terrain and the beautiful surroundings. Walking between the rows, I noticed how perfectly manicured the vines were and how the fruit was in excellent condition. I am overcome with excitement and can't wait until the fruit is ready to pick. And trust me, it's not long now!

The Decision

One question I have been asked since starting this journey was, "Why do you want to make your own wine?"

After working over 15 years in the financial industry I realized that there was just something missing.  I had traveled from Texas to the California wine country countless times and found it a welcome escape from the demands of my job. I fell in love with the surrounding; the beautiful rolling vineyards, the fresh smells that permeated the area. On each trip, my interests in wine grew as I discovered new wineries and different types of wines all while learning more about the wine making process in general. My love of wine was definitely growing. When I'd return to Texas, I'd share stories of my discoveries with family and friends over a home cooked meal that paired perfectly with these newly discovered wines. I was thrilled with the opportunity to provide the details of what I had learned of the wines and how they were made. This was a dream and I had visioned of what it would be like to make my own wine to share as well.

On one trip in 2008, while discussing this very vision, I was presented with the idea of working at a winery during the harvest season so that I could learn first hand about the entire winemaking process. At first, I didn't think that would be possible so I dismissed the comment. However, it didn't take long before I started making phone calls to make that a reality. Less than 8 months later, I started a job at a winery in San Francisco.

From day one, I was hooked! I was able to see the process from beginning to end. We took grapes from a vineyard and turned them into an amazing bottle of wine. After some time, I was then able to take that same bottle, share it with family and friends, provide them with details of the entire process, and feel that same joy that I previously experienced while sharing those newly discovered wine, but on a much deeper, more personal level. I knew this was something I wanted to do for myself.

I hope at the end of this journey, the wines I produce bring as much joy to you as you share them with your family and friends as these experiences have done for me.

Stay connected to this site for additional details about this new winery, its name and how to purchase for the inaugural summer 2013 release.

What's to come?

For several years now, you have been able to follow along in my adventures of working harvest in California at caliwinechick.blogspot.com. Now, things are progressing and this "Cali Wine Chick" is starting something bigger.  

Follow along to find out all about it!